Bonjour Clemmie,
I have seen heaven and it’s good! Well, at least my version of heaven…
Thanks to a very kind person, the LTC and I enjoyed a VIP day in the Champagne region last Friday. My heart was racing when I spied my first vineyard!
We began in Épernay at Moët & Chandon and from the minute we entered the building we knew it was something special. I will admit here that Moët has not been top of my list in the past but this was – by far – the most professional, enthusiastic and passionate group we encountered. From the grounds, the building and cellars to our delightful hostess and host, even to the reception crew and security guard this place was remarkable. Our private tour began on the M&C side but we were diverted to the Dom Perignon cellars, by our clever guide Patricia, in an effort to avoid any other groups. She was quite adept at this and maintained a sense of “we are the only ones here” throughout. We learned the history of the house, family tree, Champagne making process, talked a bit about Napoleon, the Great War and explored a small part of the 17+ miles of cellars. One of the joys of wine is that there’s always something to learn – even when you sell the stuff. So here’s a geeky little factoid I learned; Moët & Chandon always use all three Champagne grapes grown in the region (Chardonnay, Pinot noir and Meunier,) in every bottle they produce, every time. It’s a love letter to Épernay, really, celebrating this amazing gift of nature. So you won’t find a blanc de blanc, or blanc de noir, etc….all 3 grapes, always, just in different proportions. Our tasting in the English gardens with Patricia and Fernand, comparing the Moët non vintage and 2008 vintage brut, was every bit as special as the tour. Honestly, had we not had an afternoon appointment we would have spent the day with our new, sparkling friends!
Off we went to Reims and Veuve Clicquot. At Veuve, we expected to be part of a small group but as it turned out we ended up on our own again. Vincent (a Sicilian transplant) was lovely and accommodating, knowledgeable and friendly, and the Crayères were jaw dropping and we love the Widow and her story, but it was definitely a different experience from Moët. Veuve felt a little more like what Napa has become; a little touristy and trendy. Having said that, the Champagne they produce is of course, wonderful. Vincent was generous enough to open a bottle of vintage La Grande Dame 2004 and continued to answer our questions. The Crayères of Reims are different from the caves (purpose built) of Épernay in that the Crayères are actually old Roman chalk mines that were eventually repurposed for Champagne storage and maturation. But I go on! We made our way back to Épernay, where we stayed, and had a tasty meal at an adorable, and somewhat rowdy, French bistro in town off of the Avenue de Champagne.
Yes – even the street names are my version of heaven!
Saturday we spent wandering the Ave de Champagne and the surrounding communities of Ay and Mareuil sur Ay, where there are more growers and Champagne houses. I’d be knocking on doors now for a job were it not for something Vincent told us – the region averages 250 days of rain annually. I think that might be more than Seattle! I can report, however, that we did not experience even a drop. Perhaps that’s just what they tell tourists…
dear clemmie 