Gutentag Clemmie,
This past weekend we spent a few days in Garmisch Partenkirchen, in the Bavarian Alps. Strange to think I was about two hours (through the mountains) from Mezzocorona where I had been about a month earlier, on the Italian side of the Alps. The month has gone by incredibly fast, too fast, but I remain grateful for the time I’ve been able to spend here, with The LTC.
I can report there is a lot of construction happening on the Autobahn, as well as adding infrastructure for improved and new high speed trains, so traffic is a bit of a bear. The nav system in our rental car is good about alternative routes, but takes us along some eyebrow raising byways. So after a longer than expected but eventful and interesting drive from Stuttgart, we arrived in Garmisch. We stayed at the army resort that turned out to be on post, so that in itself was interesting. It’s a nice resort, but there’s always an awkward vibe since no one is in uniform…no one knows where they rank among their fellow travelers and that leads to a weird, general standoffish-ness. Not that we spent a lot of time in the hotel.
Saturday morning we roamed the streets of Garmisch (Partenkirchen is a few KMs away, but shares municipal functions and the ministry of hipster has coined the two GaPa,) which is a very Bavarian, old town complete with onion domed churches, half timber homes, and lots of window boxes planted with geraniums; picture perfect. We stopped in the tourist info center and they discouraged us from taking the Zugspitzbahn (cog wheel train) to the mountain because of clouds. We wouldn’t be able to see all the way to Austria and Switzerland, so we should do something else, like the Partenkirchen gorge or Olympic Village (Garmisch was host to the Winter Olympics, infamously, in 1936) and within three blocks we didn’t listen. Our defiance was rewarded, richly! Not only was the trip up the mountain on the train breathtakingly scenic, but the view – albeit not to neighboring countries – was pretty spectacular once we arrived. Those of you who are claustrophobic would not have liked the last 25 minutes of the ride where the train took us through close (little tolerance on either side of the train) tunnels blasted out of the granite, at a very steep grade. From Eibsee, beginning again in December, the tunnel portion of the train ride can be skipped in favor of a brand new Seilbahn that will take you, via cable car, to the Zugspitze. There’s also a cable car from Zugspitze to Alpspitze (neighboring peak,) that runs a handful of times a day. Alternatively, you can hike between the two peaks…which looked like a popular activity but I will pass on that. There’s a little bit of a glacier left on the mountain which is a popular toboggan slope for kids year round, and according to our waiter from the night before, it offers seven months of skiing. Of course, in between and throughout the region there is a plenty of skiing, and lots of cute alpen pensions and cafes for ski bunny-ing.
We stopped mid point on the journey back down the mountain in Eibsee. This gorgeous, alpine fed lake is stunning for its beauty but also for the lack of any sort of development. There is a resort and a handful of restaurants/biergartens on the lake side of the train and Seilbahn, but otherwise the entire lake is public and accessible by a trail that encircles the perimeter. It’s actually possible to walk from Eibsee to GaPa but it will take you a good two + hours. The walk around the lake is a little over an hour, with views from every angle imaginable. Along the way, we saw couples, families and groups of all sizes enjoying the trail and the lake – swimming, boating, floating, and sunbathing – all while being watched over by these incredible, jagged, ancient giants.
There are three other lovely towns to note on this journey; smaller versions of GaPa and accessible to the hiking and skiing people come to the region for. Grainau is the next most accessible to the mountain and is thick with bavarian and half timber architecture, pastures for summer grazing of sheep and cattle, and naturally breathtaking views. Kreuzeck seems like a purpose built ski town and they offer a cable car direct to Alpspitze via the Alpspitzbahn, of course! Hausberg, just prior to GaPa is the jumping off point for long hikes and bike rides through the valley or up into the hills. I’m sure by spending the majority of our day along the mountain route, we missed many other beautiful and interesting places in this surprisingly large region, but we thoroughly enjoyed our time.
On Sunday, The LTC managed to find a bakery open for a hearty and delicious breakfast. This is a little unusual for Germany, Sunday is a quiet day and many restaurants and all shopping is closed. We lucked out though and were able to have a leisurely morning, (after I sent us on a bit of a wild goose chase…I thought we could find a breakfast joint in the adorable town of Lermoos, Austria. Turns out, mostly breakfast is provided by the pensions for their patrons, oops,) before heading to Dachau. A sobering way to end the weekend, but we toured the memorial site of the infamous concentration camp. The grounds and museum are well arranged to tell the story of how the place came to be, what happened there, and how it all ended. Dachau operated for 12 years, which is shocking in itself, with at least 150 subsidiary camps in the immediate, surrounding area, and was the camp all others would be modeled after. We may never know the full truth of what happened in these camps, but I appreciate that there are people who make sure we never forget what we do know.

Tschüss!

Ahoj Clemmie,
The LTC and I spent four fantastic days in Prague and what a surprise! I didn’t know what to expect, LTC had heard “good stuff” from some of his colleagues but given the hardcore group he hangs with, I was leery. I needn’t have worried, as it turns out. 
The first thing you notice about Prague is how big and sprawling it is; not unusual for a city of 1.2 million, excluding the tourists. The next thing is the architecture – baroque, art nouveau, gothic, Romanesque…take your pick, it exists here. There’s even (at least) one very cool cubist, and a grows-on-you deconstructive building in the mix. It’s nearly overwhelming. And the views from everywhere are jaw dropping. We learned (from our friendly and informative driver,) this is due to the fact that Prague was mostly spared bombing during WWII. I dare say it’s more Paris than Paris, and at a fraction of the price. (Yes, I can hear Parisians screaming.) 
For those of you considering the expat life, I can report that in addition to the extreme affordability of the city, you will find it easy to assimilate given most people speak English (some better than me,) and within a day it’s simple to navigate. Even if you aren’t a public transport type, taxis are cheap. And clean! Restaurants of all types are plentiful although leafy greens aren’t exactly a forte here. We did happen upon an outdoor market so veg can be found, it just doesn’t figure prominently in their cuisine. 
We covered a good part of the city, but I can further report four days is not enough. The palace complex alone could eat up a day, and I’d happily burn a day in the Jewish Quarter shopping and hanging at the multiple champagne bars. Despite the density of the city, there are lovely parks and green areas – Petrin Hill even includes Prague’s version of the Eiffel Tower, built two years after the original. (More French tears…) We did manage to squeeze in a couple of boat rides on the river, one day, one night, and despite its touristy nature, it’s a pleasant (and less crowded) way to view the city. 
We thoroughly enjoyed all aspects of our visit. I get the feeling the Czech people are proud, happy, and happy to be a free and independent people. They talk a bit about the years of communism and it’s nothing they want to return to – nor the time under Austro Hungarian rule. I’m very impressed by the progress and optimism of this young, (and really old,) vibrant city. I highly recommend s visit if you find yourself traveling to Europe. 
Oh! And their beer is very good!

Dear Liebchen Clemmie,

The LTC and I spent a terrific weekend (together, woo!) in Berchtesgaden, with a stop in Munich on the way. 
Munich was fun (for two hours, LTC would add here,) and positively teeming with humanity. I’m sure the bright sunshine brought everyone out. We had been driving for a few hours so our primary goal was securing food and beverage. We spied a rooftop cafe and tucked into beer and flammenkuchen, while watching the masses below from high atop our perch. What’s flammenkuchen you ask? It’s a Alsatian-Moselle dish (aka tarte flambé) that has nearly a cracker thin crust that’s topped with crème fraîche, thinly sliced onions and well, bacon. Of course there are other combos but the aforementioned is classic. Did I say YUM?! The LTC of course, loves it because it is reminiscent of his favorite food group, pizza, and it pairs beautifully with beer. Happy man. 
After we were recharged, we entered the flow of tourists throughout the Marienplatz gazing up at the Glockenspiel and new (1874) town hall (Rathaus,) St. Peter’s Church and elbowed our way through the Viktualienmarkt – basically a daily outdoor market. The most unusual sight we stumbled across was a makeshift Michael Jackson memorial that sits at the base of an “official ” memorial and directly across the street from the decidedly fancy Bayerischer Hof; where incidentally a young pop star was staying that day, much to the delight of swooning, autograph and selfie seeking, sometimes sobbing, young girls that were more or less blocking the walkway and spilling into the street. I could not identify the young man and object of their affections, so that makes me officially out of the loop on boy bands. I can live with that. 
After our side trip to Munich, we continued on to Berchtesgaden, which is close to Hitler’s Obersalzberg compound and Eagle’s Nest which became a de facto second seat of his government in the mid 30s. We arrived with just enough time to take a walk around the village, and then have dinner at the rooftop restaurant (it was a rooftop kind of day) in our hotel, the fabulous Hotel Edelweiss. I was especially thrilled to be able to order an Aperol Sprizz, albeit at twice the price I was paying in Italy but no less delicious. Besides the incredible view, we also discovered the hotel has an amazing spa included. Easily one of the nicest places we’ve stayed, well, anywhere!
The following day we walked throughout the rest of town, discovered we could take a cable car up the mountainside, and then hike to the spot where you catch a bus to the base of the Eagle’s Nest. Since 1952, the access road has been closed to traffic and only busses run from the documentation center to the top. It’s perfectly clear why once you get going – the road is just wide enough for the bus, the drop offs are steep and long, the turns are nail biting; in short, the bus ride is something Disney imagineers might create, only the views and twisty turns are real. Once you’re off the bus, there’s a 460 meter tunnel blasted out of the mountain you walk down before you get to the gold and brass (very blingy) elevator that takes you another 460 meters straight up into the Eagle’s Nest. When you arrive, elevation is 6,017, the view is spectacular and only tempered by thoughts of the original purpose of the place. Many original features still exist but the building itself now houses a restaurant, in the very room, in front of the very fireplace that Hitler would greet foreign heads of state and conduct meetings with his henchmen. I think it’s appropriate that now people of all kinds, places and beliefs come together in this place and break bread and share and love one another. 
The documentation center at “base camp” I’ll call it, actually sits on the site of the original summer house Hitler rented, then bought – then “bought” the entire town and built his special off limits area. As we learned, this would also include massive subterranean bunkers and shelters for Hitler and his inner circle. Again, fascinating but fascination tempered by knowledge, realization and a slight sense of nausea when considering the diabolical plans that were created in the space we occupied.  
We spent two very full days in Berchtesgaden and would like to return in the winter (I know, crazy right?!) for Christmas markets, skiing and a different view of this darling little alpine village. 

Ciao Clemmie,
I have spent four wonderful days in the very small commune of Mezzocorona. You may wonder, why? Yeah, I just kinda picked it. After the throngs in Milan and the still somewhat touristy (but adorable) Verona, I was ready for something completely different. So, no Venice, no Lake Garda, and not even Trento or Bolzano…
First thing that took me by surprise was the warmth – in the mountains! Ok, so you’re in the valley but still, I thought it’d be a little cooler. For the record, I’m not complaining but I was surprised. As it turns out, it’s a bit of a microclimate; a few hundred meters up and it’s significantly cooler. The evenings and early mornings are also quite lovely, crisp and cool, and the air is perfumed with the scent of jasmine.
Mezzo is absolutely surrounded my grape vines. In fact, the region (Trentino) could give Napa and Sonoma a run for its money. The weird thing is, people don’t travel here for the wine or wineries. Most are passing through on their way somewhere else, which is a bit of a shame. For such a small town (~5000) there are a lot of young people and a whole lot of redevelopment happening. I’m guessing it’s a little bit of a bedroom community for the much larger Trento (100k+) that is maybe 20 minutes south. Lots of cyclists – there is a fabulous bike trail that runs from Trento all the way to Bolzano – the Val d’Adige Cycle Track, which I believe feeds in to other area tracks. I did bang around a little on the tracks with a hotel bike. As you can imagine, there’s also a lot of hiking in the region and skiing come winter.
I stayed on a grape farm – they grow Teroldego, an indigenous red grape, on the property and run what they call an Agritur. The farm was ancient, and the young people reworked the building and breathed new life into the grounds. Next door is a restaurant (Locande Camorz,) that takes “Farm to Table” cuisine to a whole new level. I had the chefs tasting menu, with wine pairing (that was 3 full glasses) and it was less than $50 and the single best meal I’ve had in Italy. I even ate goat cheese, and I hate goat cheese, but this preparation, paired with Müller-Thurgau of all things, was off the chart deelish. The goat and the M-T wine somehow made each other sing. The family that runs the operation are the kindest, most loving and generous of spirit people I’ve come across in Italy. It’s primarily run by a young couple in their late 20s (with a 1 yo baby) with help from mom, aunties, sisters , brothers – literally the whole family. Everyone pitches in on everything throughout the place, and they still seem to genuinely like each other and their guests.
I was also lucky enough to spend part of the day at the Mezzacorona/Rotari winery. Although to be honest, it’s more of a complex. I toured the winemaking facilities and had a chance to taste all the wines that never make it to Maine. Some don’t make it to the US, for that matter. The most remarkable part of the tour is the slow realization that fully 2/3rds of the facility is subterranean, and a good portion of the exposed facility has “green” rooftops. The building literally looks like it’s growing out of the ground. I won’t bore you with all the gory details but you know I was in heaven.

Dear Clemmie,

Fair Verona – I am totally enthralled with this little walled city (although many of the walls have crumbled over the centuries). The Adige river surrounds and passes through the city, another postcard from every view. 
I’m a little too early for Opera at the Arena but they are building out the sets and I did catch an exhibit at AMO -Arena Muse Opera – that included clips of past performances, costumes and photos. The museum also had an extremely interesting feature of Toulouse-Lautrec which I found fascinating. 
Early mornings (5a-7a) are the quietest times on the streets, but the city starts its clamorous waking shortly after 7, even on Saturday. I zipped over to catch a glimpse of Juliet’s castle before the throngs of humanity packed the small space – I can report they lock the gates overnight but it’s still better than fighting the sweaty crowds. 
My hotel was really the most pleasant and delightful surprise of all. It sits on the edge of the city, almost unknown to those who hustle by and ironically bordering a military area so if you find revile bothersome maybe it wouldn’t be for you. It boasts a lovely courtyard where they serve typically sweet pastries and good cappuccino for breakfast; comfortable, updated rooms, and a very cool medieval entry door. It’s slightly shabby exterior belies the sparkling gem inside. 
The shopping here is every bit as good as Milan but the aura is so much more authentic – the feeling that people actually live lives in these homes and places. Over the river and into the hills they make wonderful wines, the king of them being Amarone. Even their wines feel more open and accessible than other regions. 
Today I make my way from Verona to Mezzocorona in the Dolomites. I can see these mountains from here and am intrigued…I feel I need to see them up close!