Dear Clemmie,

Fair Verona – I am totally enthralled with this little walled city (although many of the walls have crumbled over the centuries). The Adige river surrounds and passes through the city, another postcard from every view. 
I’m a little too early for Opera at the Arena but they are building out the sets and I did catch an exhibit at AMO -Arena Muse Opera – that included clips of past performances, costumes and photos. The museum also had an extremely interesting feature of Toulouse-Lautrec which I found fascinating. 
Early mornings (5a-7a) are the quietest times on the streets, but the city starts its clamorous waking shortly after 7, even on Saturday. I zipped over to catch a glimpse of Juliet’s castle before the throngs of humanity packed the small space – I can report they lock the gates overnight but it’s still better than fighting the sweaty crowds. 
My hotel was really the most pleasant and delightful surprise of all. It sits on the edge of the city, almost unknown to those who hustle by and ironically bordering a military area so if you find revile bothersome maybe it wouldn’t be for you. It boasts a lovely courtyard where they serve typically sweet pastries and good cappuccino for breakfast; comfortable, updated rooms, and a very cool medieval entry door. It’s slightly shabby exterior belies the sparkling gem inside. 
The shopping here is every bit as good as Milan but the aura is so much more authentic – the feeling that people actually live lives in these homes and places. Over the river and into the hills they make wonderful wines, the king of them being Amarone. Even their wines feel more open and accessible than other regions. 
Today I make my way from Verona to Mezzocorona in the Dolomites. I can see these mountains from here and am intrigued…I feel I need to see them up close!